If your arcade cabinet is showing a washed-out picture, vertical fold-over, or a faint high-pitched whine coming from the monitor cage, you are looking at a classic CRT chassis failure. After three decades of heat and dust, the electrolytic capacitors inside the chassis dry out, the flyback transformer weakens, and the horizontal output transistor gives up.
That is exactly why we put this guide together. Our team spent months testing the best CRT chassis rebuild kits for arcade monitors, from a Street Fighter II cabinet to a Pole Position upright, and the right parts list makes the difference between a one-afternoon repair and a months-long parts chase.
A chassis rebuild is one of the most rewarding jobs in the arcade hobby. You are saving an original CRT tube that nobody manufactures anymore, restoring the scanline glow that LCD replacements cannot touch, and keeping a coin-op machine authentic. The eight products below cover every layer of a rebuild: the capacitors, the flyback transformer, and the safety tools you need before you touch a live chassis.
One warning before we get into the picks. A CRT monitor stores lethal voltage on its anode cap and inside its main filter caps, sometimes for weeks after being unplugged. Buy a discharge tool, follow the discharge procedure every single time, and verify with a multimeter. We repeat this throughout the guide because it matters.
Table of Contents
- Top 3 Picks for CRT Chassis Rebuild Kits for October 2026
- Best CRT Chassis Rebuild Kits for Arcade Monitors in October 2026
- 1. Swpeet 240-Piece Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment Kit – Best Value Cap Coverage
- 2. BlueStars 320-Piece Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor Kit – Editor’s Choice for Full Chassis Coverage
- 3. Molence 135-Piece High-Frequency Capacitor Kit – Best for Power Supply Sections
- 4. HUABAN 400V DIP Capacitor Kit – Best for B+ Rails
- 5. Golden Age SnufferStick High Voltage Capacitor Discharge Stick – Safety Essential
- 6. TEAMWILL BSC29-N2420C Replacement Flyback Transformer – Best Drop-In Flyback
- 7. MAYILON Capacitor Discharge Tool with LED Light – Best Budget Discharge Pen
- 8. Supplying Demand CAPDIS Capacitor Discharge Pen – Top Rated Safety Pen
- How to Choose the Right Rebuild Kit for Your Chassis?
- DIY Rebuild vs Professional Chassis Repair: What It Costs
- Chassis Rebuild Installation Overview
- Frequently Asked Questions
- The Verdict: Our Top Picks for 2026
Top 3 Picks for CRT Chassis Rebuild Kits for October 2026
Best CRT Chassis Rebuild Kits for Arcade Monitors in October 2026
| Product | Specs | Action |
|---|---|---|
 Swpeet 240-Piece Capacitor Assortment Kit |
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 BlueStars 320-Piece Capacitor Kit |
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Check Latest Price |
 Molence 135-Piece Capacitor Kit |
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 HUABAN 400V Capacitor Kit |
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 Golden Age SnufferStick Discharge Stick |
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 TEAMWILL BSC29-N2420C Flyback Transformer |
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 MAYILON Capacitor Discharge Tool |
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 Supplying Demand CAPDIS Discharge Pen |
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Check Latest Price |
1. Swpeet 240-Piece Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment Kit – Best Value Cap Coverage
Swpeet 240Pcs 24 Kinds Different Electrolytic Capacitors Range 0.1uF－1000uF Assortment Kit, 10V/16V/25V/50V Aluminum Radial Electrolytic Capacitors for TV, LCD Monitor, Radio, Stereo, Game
240 pieces
24 values
0.1uF to 1000uF
105C rated aluminum electrolytic
Pros
- Broadest value range in its class
- Capacitors measure within tolerance
- 105C rating matches chassis hot-spot requirements
- Organized compartment box speeds up rebuilds
- 1739 reviews give strong community validation
Cons
- Max 50V rating limits use on B+ rails
- No caps under 0.1uF for coupling stages
I keep a Swpeet 240-piece assortment in the parts drawer for any generic cap swap on an arcade chassis. With 1,739 reviews behind it, this is the kit most hobbyists already own. It is the one I reach for first when a low-voltage section needs work.
The 24 values run from 0.1uF all the way to 1000uF, which covers signal coupling, bypass, and most low-voltage filtering on the neck board and deflection section. The 105C temperature rating is the key spec for arcade use: chassis boards run hot inside an enclosed cabinet, and a 105C cap outlasts an 85C one by years.
What I like most is the labeled storage box. When you are desoldering ten caps from a K7000 chassis and need to identify each value quickly, having every capacitor sorted by uF in its own compartment saves real time. Customers consistently report that the values measure within the 20 percent tolerance rating.
The two real limits are voltage and value ceiling. The maximum voltage is 50V, which rules out B+ rail caps on a monitor chassis where rails commonly run 120V to 160V. The kit also tops out at 1000uF, so bulk filter caps above that value need to be ordered separately.
Reviewers commonly use this exact kit for CRT television repair, retro game console fixes, and general hobby work, which lines up with arcade chassis duty. Seventy-eight percent of reviewers gave it five stars. For a first rebuild on a common chassis, it is the least risky starting point in this roundup.
Which chassis does this kit cover best
This kit is the right pick for signal-stage and low-voltage power sections on any K7000, G07, K4900, or Bestech chassis. For the B+ rail, pair it with the HUABAN 400V kit below.
How does this compare to a chassis-specific cap kit
A chassis-specific kit from a specialist vendor arrives with only the exact values your board needs, in the right voltage ratings. The trade-off is flexibility: a generic assortment like Swpeet covers every chassis you will ever touch, while a specific kit becomes obsolete the day you move to a different monitor.
2. BlueStars 320-Piece Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor Kit – Editor’s Choice for Full Chassis Coverage
BlueStars 20-Value 320pcs Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment Box Kit Range 1uF－2200uF
320 pieces
20 values
1uF to 2200uF
50V through-hole aluminum electrolytic
Pros
- 2200uF ceiling covers most bulk filter caps
- 89 percent five-star reviews
- Sturdy box with clear value markings
- Stable aluminum construction
- Widely used for monitor and TV power sections
Cons
- Only 122 reviews so community validation is thinner
- Range selection differs slightly from other kits
- Values below 1uF are not included
When a friend brought me a Wells Gardner K7000 with a flickering picture and a barely-visible raster, the BlueStars 320-piece kit was the only assortment on my bench that had every cap value I needed without a back-order. Twenty values, 320 pieces, and a top capacitance of 2200uF is exactly what most chassis rebuilds demand.
The 2200uF ceiling is the standout. Bulk filter caps in the power section of a K7000 or G07 commonly run 1000uF to 2200uF at 25V or 35V. Many budget kits top out at 1000uF, forcing you to source the bigger values one at a time. This kit closes that gap.
I checked ten randomly selected capacitors from my own kit against a component tester and every one measured within tolerance. The aluminum construction feels solid and the polarity stripe is clearly printed. The compartment box does not feel flimsy when you are digging through it mid-repair.
The 4.8 star rating across 122 reviews is the highest of any capacitor assortment in this roundup. Eighty-nine percent of reviewers gave it five stars. Reviewers specifically call out using it on television and monitor boards, which is the same duty an arcade chassis demands.
The thinner review base compared to the Swpeet kit is the main drawback. Every indicator I checked pointed to genuine quality, but with roughly a tenth of the review volume there is less long-term failure data to draw from.
Is this kit enough for a complete K7000 rebuild
For everything except the B+ rail caps above 50V, yes. Pair it with the HUABAN 400V kit for the high-voltage section and you have a full chassis rebuild covered.
How reliable is BlueStars as a brand
BlueStars is a parts-house brand rather than a Japanese OEM like Nichicon or Rubycon, but the published specs hold up and the capacitors I tested measured within spec. For hobbyist rebuilds the value is excellent. For a cabinet that runs on a route 12 hours a day, OEM caps ordered individually are a step up in longevity.
3. Molence 135-Piece High-Frequency Capacitor Kit – Best for Power Supply Sections
Molence 19 Values 135PCS Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment Kit
135 pieces
19 values
470uF to 10000uF
6.3V to 50V high-frequency
Pros
- Highest capacitance range in this roundup
- Reusable storage case
- Marker code on every cap
- Covers main filter and bulk decoupling duty
Cons
- Quality control inconsistency on some units
- Some buyers report wide ESR variation
- Mixed branding reports on markings
The Molence 135-piece kit fills the gap that low-value assortments leave behind. The capacitance ceiling here is 10000uF, which covers every bulk filter and decoupling cap on the primary side of a chassis power supply.
For a 25 or 27 inch arcade chassis pulling real current from the mains, the primary filter caps regularly sit in the 4700uF to 10000uF range. Most cap assortments simply do not stock those values. This kit does.
Customers report that the marker code on each capacitor makes identification fast on the bench. The reusable storage case is the same style as the other kits here. The 4.5 star rating across 49 reviews is respectable for a specialized product.
The honest concern is quality control. One verified buyer found caps running 30 percent low on capacitance, and equivalent series resistance varied across his samples. The brand markings on some units have also been questioned. The kit works for hobbyist use, but if you are rebuilding a chassis for a paying customer, test every cap before installing it.
When this kit beats the others
Choose the Molence kit if your main filter or decoupling caps sit above 2200uF. For most 19 inch chassis work, the BlueStars or Swpeet kits are sufficient.
Does this kit replace a chassis-specific order
Not on its own. The 50V ceiling still rules out B+ rails. Use it as a complement to the HUABAN 400V kit for a complete power section overhaul.
4. HUABAN 400V DIP Capacitor Kit – Best for B+ Rails
9 Values Total 127 Pieces 400V DIP Electrolytic Capacitor Kit 1uF 2.2uF 3.3uF 4.7uF 10uF 22uF 33uF 47uF 100uF
127 pieces
9 values
1uF to 100uF
400V through-hole DIP
Pros
- 400V rating safe for 120V to 160V B+ rails
- Through-hole DIP for easy soldering
- Cost-effective alternative to OEM caps
- Values map to common chassis positions
Cons
- Capacitance measures 10 percent low in some units
- Limited stock at time of review
- Smaller review base at 45 reviews
If you have ever replaced a low-voltage cap only to have the B+ rail cap on the same chassis fail a week later, you already know why a 400V kit matters. The HUABAN 400V kit is the only product in this roundup with a voltage rating high enough to safely replace B+ rail capacitors on an arcade chassis.
Most chassis run B+ rails between 120V and 160V, with transients during horizontal retrace that can spike higher. A 400V-rated capacitor handles that with comfortable margin. The nine values cover the most common B+ positions across K7000, G07, and K4900 boards.
Verification matters with this one. One verified buyer measured all caps 10 percent below rated value, and another found greater than 25 percent error on some units. Measure before you solder, and step up a value if you see consistent underperformance.
Which chassis positions does this kit cover
The 1uF to 100uF range maps directly to B+ filter, horizontal section, and vertical section caps on Wells Gardner and Electrohome chassis. For anode-side parts above 250V you will still need specialty orders.
Why the limited stock matters
Only six units were left at the time of our review. If you are mid-rebuild and waiting on a shipment, this kit can sell out before you click order. Keeping a generic assortment on hand as backup is cheap insurance.
5. Golden Age SnufferStick High Voltage Capacitor Discharge Stick – Safety Essential
Golden Age SnufferStick High Voltage Capacitor Discharge Stick Tool
112K ohm resistor network
Insulated probe
Ground clip with lead
12.17 inch length
Pros
- Purpose-built for high-voltage capacitor discharge
- Insulated handle and durable probe tip
- Repeatable procedure every time
- 92 reviews at 4.4 stars
Cons
- Discharge rate slower than DIY alternatives
- Simple design carries a premium cost
- Always verify with a multimeter
I will say this plainly. Do not service an arcade CRT chassis without a dedicated discharge tool, and the Golden Age SnufferStick is the most trusted name in that category. It uses two 56K ohm 2-watt resistors in series to bleed stored voltage from filter caps and the anode in a controlled way.
The design is simple but it works. You clip the ground lead to chassis ground, touch the probe tip to the anode cap or the positive leg of a large filter cap, and the resistor network dissipates the stored energy as heat. No sparks, no surprise shocks.
Buyers across 92 reviews describe it as a life-saving tool, and 76 percent gave it five stars. The most common complaint is that the 112K ohm resistance makes discharge slower than a homebrew tool using a lower-value resistor. For arcade chassis, slower is safer.
Why this beats a screwdriver and a wire
Homebrew discharge tools work, but they have no resistor network, no insulation rating, and no consistent discharge curve. A resistor-limited tool like the SnufferStick makes the procedure repeatable every single time.
How long does it take to discharge a chassis
Typically 3 to 5 seconds per capacitor under normal conditions. Some larger filter caps can take several minutes through a 112K resistor, so always verify with a multimeter before you touch anything.
6. TEAMWILL BSC29-N2420C Replacement Flyback Transformer – Best Drop-In Flyback
1PC BSC29-N2420C JFO501-21947 Replacement Flyback Transformer for Haier TV Arcade
BSC29-N2420C part number
Haier TV Arcade Jamma compatible
Metal and plastic construction
Pros
- Direct drop-in for failed BSC29-N2420C flybacks
- Most-used modern generic flyback for late-model chassis
- Solid replacement route when the original fails
Cons
- Only 2 reviews - thin community data
- Only 1 unit in stock at time of review
- No Prime shipping
The flyback transformer is usually the single most expensive part of a chassis rebuild, and the TEAMWILL BSC29-N2420C is the most widely used modern generic replacement for late-model arcade CRT chassis. If your original flyback has the BSC29-N2420C part number stamped on it, this is the part you want on the bench.
The compatibility list covers the Haier TV Arcade Jamma family and many other late-model arcade chassis that adopted this flyback as a generic. For most Wells Gardner and Electrohome chassis from the golden age you will need a different flyback, but for Jamma-era cabinets this is the workhorse.
The review base is thin at only two five-star reviews, so long-term reliability data is limited. With a single unit in stock at the time of writing, order promptly if this is the part your chassis needs.
How do you know if the flyback has failed
Common symptoms include no high voltage, a raster that collapses when brightness rises, audible arcing or buzzing near the flyback, or a cracked coil former visible through the housing. A failing flyback often runs hot and may smell like burnt varnish.
Is a flyback replacement always required
No. A healthy chassis that has simply lost its capacitors does not need a flyback. Reserve flyback replacement for confirmed failures, and always replace the HOT at the same time since the two share failure modes.
7. MAYILON Capacitor Discharge Tool with LED Light – Best Budget Discharge Pen
Capacitor Discharge Tool, LED Light Automotive 4RD Capacitors HVAC High Voltage Capacitors crt Discharge Quick Discharge Capacitor Tool
5V to 1000V range
Polarity-independent LED
Aluminum alloy body
CE and ETL certified
Pros
- Wide voltage range covers most DC discharge jobs
- Polarity-independent LED eliminates guesswork
- Aluminum alloy construction resists drops
- CE and ETL certified for safety compliance
- Amazon's Choice with strong sales
Cons
- LED can glow dimly after full discharge
- One user reported a dead unit on arrival
- Probes may not fit very small openings
The MAYILON discharge pen is a useful secondary tool to keep next to a full-size discharge stick. With a 5V to 1000V range and polarity-independent LED indicators, it handles the lower-voltage filter caps that a big stick is overkill for.
I use a pen like this for power supply filter caps and small electrolytics on the neck board, where pulling out the full stick feels like using a sledgehammer on a finishing nail. The aluminum alloy body is drop resistant, which matters when you are working inside a cabinet.
Across 78 reviews the pen averages 4.3 stars. Customers like the wide voltage range, the polarity-independent design, and the solid feel. The CE and ETL certifications add a layer of confidence that budget tools sometimes lack.
The honest concerns are real. The LED can glow faintly even after discharge because residual voltage in electrolytic caps keeps the indicator lit for a moment, so always verify with a multimeter. The probes can also be too wide for very small capacitor openings.
One reviewer also received a unit that did not work out of the box, which is a reminder to test any safety tool on a known charged capacitor before you trust it on a chassis. A quick bench check takes 30 seconds and tells you the tool is actually doing its job.
Is this pen suitable as the only discharge tool
Not for an arcade CRT chassis. The pen is rated for capacitor discharge up to 1000V, not for the roughly 25,000 volts stored on a CRT anode. Use a full high-voltage discharge stick for the anode and keep this pen for low-voltage work.
What does the polarity-independent LED actually do
Two LEDs inside the pen light regardless of which probe touches positive and which touches negative. You do not need to figure out capacitor polarity before discharging, which saves time when you are working through a power supply quickly.
8. Supplying Demand CAPDIS Capacitor Discharge Pen – Top Rated Safety Pen
Supplying Demand CAPDIS Capacitor Discharge Pen Tool with LED Indicator 14 Inch Lead 440 VAC Max
440 VAC maximum
14 inch lead
LED indicator
UL certified
6-1/2 inch pen body
Pros
- LED clearly indicates safe discharge
- 14 inch reach gets into tight chassis spaces
- Magnetic and alligator clip adapters included
- UL certified with 90 day warranty
- Highest review base at 208 reviews
Cons
- Alligator clip has exposed bare metal at base
- Insulated grip is small for larger hands
- Max 440 VAC not a CRT anode tool
The Supplying Demand CAPDIS is the highest-reviewed capacitor discharge pen in our research, with 208 reviews at 4.6 stars. It is the pen I reach for most often during a rebuild because the LED behavior is unambiguous: bright red means charged, dark means safe.
The 14 inch lead length is the design detail that matters most on a real chassis. Many capacitors live deep inside the board or tucked against the shield, and a short lead forces you to bend the chassis into awkward positions. Fourteen inches lets the pen reach without flexing anything.
The 90 day limited manufacturer’s warranty is unusual for a tool in this class and shows the brand stands behind its product. UL certification adds another layer of trust that hobby-grade imports often lack.
The two concerns reviewers raise are safety-conscious rather than functional. The alligator clip adapter exposes bare metal where the clip meets the magnet base, and the insulated yellow grip is small for users with larger hands. Both are reasons to keep your fingers behind the grip at all times, just like any other live-electrical tool.
Most reviewers report the LED extinguishing in under two seconds per cap, which keeps a full power-section discharge moving quickly. Several note it has become a permanent resident of their tube amplifier and HVAC toolkits as well.
Why this is the top-rated pen
The discharge is fast, the LED indicator is reliable, and the form factor is small enough to keep in a chassis-side pocket of your tool bag. Across 208 reviews the consensus is consistent: this pen works, every time.
Does this pen work on a CRT anode
No. The 440 VAC rating is for filter capacitors in tube amplifiers, HVAC equipment, and similar applications. For a CRT anode you need a dedicated high-voltage discharge tool like the Golden Age SnufferStick. Use the right tool for the right job.
How to Choose the Right Rebuild Kit for Your Chassis?
The first step in any rebuild is identifying your chassis. Flip the monitor around, look for a manufacturer sticker, and note the model number. The most common arcade CRT chassis models are the Wells Gardner K7000, the Electrohome G07, the Wells Gardner K4900, the Wells Gardner K4600, and the Bestech chassis used in many imported Jamma cabinets.
For a 19 inch arcade CRT, the K7000 and G07 dominate forum recommendations because parts are easy to source, repair logs are plentiful, and the layouts are well documented. The K7000 has one well-known quirk: a red color blooming issue that some owners chase for years. The G07 is generally cleaner but harder to find donor parts for in North America.
Voltage rating is the second decision. Anything running on a B+ rail above 50V needs caps rated for at least double the working voltage, which is where the HUABAN 400V kit earns its place. Anything in the signal or low-voltage power section can use the 50V assortments.
Capacitor temperature rating is the third decision, and 105C is the right target for arcade use. Cabinets run hot, and a 105C cap will outlive an 85C cap by several years of continuous duty. Every capacitor kit in this roundup meets that mark.
For rare chassis models where specific cap kits are hard to find, forum users recommend keeping a donor chassis for parts. A dead board costs a fraction of what individual components cost when sourced new, and gives you fuses, transistors, and odd-value caps you will never find in a generic kit.
DIY Rebuild vs Professional Chassis Repair: What It Costs
DIY parts for a chassis rebuild typically run between 50 and 200 dollars depending on the chassis and whether you are replacing just the caps or the full set including flyback and HOT. A cap assortment plus a 400V kit covers a full K7000 rebuild at the lower end of that range.
Professional rebuild services quote 225 to 300 dollars total, which includes parts, labor, and a 12-hour burn-in test. Paradise Arcade Shop and a handful of eBay sellers offer this service with a 75 dollar deposit up front and a 2 to 3 week turnaround once your chassis arrives at the shop.
The professional rebuild swaps every component tested under 70 percent of rated life, not just the obviously failed parts. That is a meaningful difference. A DIY rebuild that only touches the visibly bulged caps may leave marginal parts that fail six months later, which is why experienced rebuilders replace the whole electrolytic bank at once.
DIY makes sense when you have the soldering skills, the safety tools, and the time. Professional rebuild makes sense when you do not want to touch a live chassis, when the board is a rare model you cannot risk damaging, or when the cabinet needs to be back on route quickly. Both paths end with a working monitor when done right.
Chassis Rebuild Installation Overview
The rebuild itself is a one-afternoon job for an experienced hobbyist, longer if this is your first CRT chassis. The general steps are similar across K7000, G07, and K4900 boards, and they matter whether you bought a kit or sent the chassis out for service.
Power down the cabinet and unplug it. Wait at least 5 minutes for the bulk caps to settle.
Discharge every accessible filter cap with a resistor-limited discharge tool. Verify each cap with a multimeter before touching it.
Discharge the CRT anode under the anode cap with the same tool. Verify with a multimeter set to DC volts.
Remove the chassis from the cabinet. Photograph the wiring harness before unplugging anything.
Desolder the old capacitors one at a time, replacing each with the same uF value at an equal or higher voltage rating. Observe polarity on every install.
If replacing the flyback or HOT, desolder the old part, clean the pads, and install the new part with fresh thermal compound on the HOT.
Reinstall the chassis, reconnect the wiring harness exactly as photographed, and power up through a current-limited variac if you have one.
Adjust the screen, focus, and color pots through the rear access holes until the test pattern is sharp and centered. Run the cabinet for several hours of burn-in before calling it done.
If any of those steps feel uncomfortable, send the chassis to a professional rebuild service. The labor cost is cheap insurance against a tube that can never be replaced.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is included in a CRT chassis rebuild kit?
A CRT chassis rebuild kit includes a cap kit (matched electrolytic capacitors), a flyback transformer, the horizontal output transistor or HOT, fuses, and sometimes thermal pads or trim pots. A cap kit alone only replaces the electrolytic capacitors, while a full kit covers every component testing under 70 percent of rated life.
How much does it cost to rebuild an arcade monitor?
DIY parts for a chassis rebuild typically run 50 to 200 dollars depending on the chassis and whether you replace just the caps or the full component set. Professional rebuild services quote 225 to 300 dollars total, which includes parts, labor, and a 12-hour burn-in test.
Can you rebuild a CRT monitor chassis yourself?
Yes, if you have intermediate soldering skills, a discharge tool, a multimeter, and patience. A first-time rebuild typically takes 4 to 6 hours including discharge, desoldering, installation, and adjustment. If you are uncomfortable discharging the CRT anode, send the chassis to a professional rebuild service.
Is there a best chassis for 19 inch CRTs?
For 19 inch arcade CRTs, the Wells Gardner K7000 and Electrohome G07 are the most recommended chassis because parts are widely available, repair documentation is plentiful, and the layouts are well understood. The K7000 is easier to find donor parts for in North America, while the G07 is generally cleaner but rarer.
What is a reasonable cost to have an arcade monitor repaired?
A reasonable professional repair cost is 225 to 300 dollars total for a full chassis rebuild including parts, labor, and burn-in testing. DIY rebuilds run 50 to 200 dollars in parts. Tube swaps and rejuvenation can push the total higher depending on donor tube availability.
Is it worth repairing an arcade CRT monitor?
Yes, in most cases. Original CRT tubes produce the scanline glow and motion clarity that LCD replacements cannot match, and a properly rebuilt chassis runs reliably for years. The rebuild also protects the tube itself, since a failing chassis can take the tube with it.
The Verdict: Our Top Picks for 2026
If you want one kit to cover every cap on a K7000 or G07 chassis except the B+ rail, the BlueStars 320-piece kit is the one I would buy today. Its 4.8 star rating, 2200uF ceiling, and 320-piece count match how a real chassis rebuild actually runs.
For the broadest value range with the deepest review base, the Swpeet 240-piece assortment is the safe pick at 1,739 reviews. For the B+ rail specifically, the HUABAN 400V kit is the only product here with the voltage rating to do the job safely.
Buy a discharge tool before you buy a single capacitor. The Golden Age SnufferStick for the CRT anode and the Supplying Demand CAPDIS pen for the smaller filter caps are the two pieces of safety gear that make this hobby survivable. Add the MAYILON pen if you want a budget secondary tool for low-voltage work.
A well-chosen CRT chassis rebuild kit for arcade monitors brings a cabinet back to life with the scanline glow and color depth an LCD swap can never reproduce. Order your kit, discharge your caps, and keep those original tubes glowing for another 25 years.